1- Learn wave positioning and weight distribution to speed up. There are generally two ways to speed up on a wave, the first, being having a little weight slightly further forward on your board (although be careful not to nose dive!), is more subtle, the second, actively ‘pumping’ down the line, is an involved process requiring rhythm and skilled position on the wave. According to King Kelly Slater himself, the top third of the wave is where you can generate the most speed, so be sure to concentrate your efforts in this vicinity. Essentially what you’re trying to do is to utilise gravity and the push of the wave in order to generate momentum. To ‘step up’, you need to shift your weight slightly to the inside rail, push gently on the tail of your board in order to engage your fins whilst easing the weight off of your front foot, and square your body to look ‘down the line’ of the breaking wave. From this position you should literally be able to ‘step up’ the face of the wave, front foot first, and then ease the weight back towards your front foot in order to allow the back foot to follow suit. ‘Stepping’ down the wave from this position will generate speed and will require you to keep the weight slightly concentrated on the front foot, whilst easing the pressure off of your inside rail in order to let your board slide down the face of the wave. The transition between ‘step up’ and ‘step down’ should be smooth and fluid. Should you be chasing a fast moving section, effectively coordinating the movement will make the process repeatable.

2- Turn, extend your bottom turn, and increase friction to slow down. Again, the are generally 2 waves to slow down on a wave, the first being to ease your weight onto your back foot, although beware as doing this clumsily will result in you raising up the face of the wave towards the breaking lip, the second is to turn/perform a manoeuvre.

Tips

Stay low on your board. This allows for easier transition of weight between your feet and better balance!